1st. Lyn arrived yesterday evening to a complete change in the weather, from warm and sunny to chilly and wet, and tired from several weeks guiding in the Artic. So a quiet day with walks round the town and along the beach front, a dip into the gallery for an exquisite exhibition of needlepoint and a drive round Le Parc suburb of Royan with its interesting architecture but really no photo opportunities due to the adverse weather.
2nd Sunday. A long and happy day with an explore of the oyster farms and lunch at Mornac.
After lunch we drove on to Fort Louvois which is situated next to the bridge crossing to Ile d’Oléron.
We had to wait for low tide to cross the causeway which gave us time to wander round the port of Bourcefranc-le-Chapus and more Oysterculture.
The causeway across to the Fort was tretrurously slippery.
The Fort itself was a little C17 gem. Well protected with moats, drawbridges and canon.
Mon 3rd. Into Royan today for the Brocant, where I found a wonderfull new mirror for above the basin in the loo, followed by a really good lunch with a view of the port.
4th Tues. Following a quiet morning at home we set off for the 17.30 ferry out to the Phare de Cordouan in calm seas and windless weather, albeit a bit hot. We were lucky enough to secure seats on the back deck with a clear view and benefited from the shade afforded by the wheelhouse as we were heading due west. The lighthouse is situated right at the mouth of the estuary between the two arms and the open Atlantic. It is built on sand bars that are exposed at low tide and can be approached by an elevated causeway that flat bottomed boats can reach under certain tidal conditions but we were warned that the least we would experience was wet feet! To Facilitate the landing the ferry boat towed a landing craft out to the lighthouse with it.
Once on the lighthouse platform you mount a flight of stairs that takes you up one floor to the inner courtyard with the tower in the middle and a single story outer ring of buildings which mostly comprise staff accommodation, thus giving the interior two stories, plus the height of the platforms worth of protection against high seas.
The first light was constructed here in 1360 but was just a tower on top of which a beacon was lit. The first lighthouse proper was built between 1584 and 1611 and it was heightened by 20mts in 1786-1789.
Inside a lighthouse keeper shows you around. There are four keepers that work a two week on/two week off schedule all year round. The ground floor features an entrance hall with the tiny 3msq rooms that for two century’s served as the keepers sleeping quarters. On the first floor were the “King’s appartments” but no monarch ever used them.
The second floor houses the chapel, with stained glass windows, alter, font and painted cieling.
The oculi that pierce every floor were added in the 1786 up-grade to facilitate haulage of fuel up to the light but they also serve as convient “window” to take another view of the floor below!
The 3rd floor houses a meeting room and is the start of the wonderfully elegant spiral staircase that starts the ascent of the final 20mts.
On the fourth floor is the counterweight room which also contains the winch for pulling up the fuel.
Right at the top, just under the lamp is the watch officer’s room, and them the lamp itself. The platform round the lamp afforded extensive views.
All to soon it was time to wade across the sands to the pick-up point for the landing craft anf head back to Royan after a really rather marvellous experience.
Wed 5th. A late afternoon trip into Royan in the hope of finding a night market like the one we had passed yesterday on our way home, was fruitless. But we did witness free Latin Dance lessons available to all comers taking place along the prom.
Thurs 6th.Off early-ISH in the camper to Chateau Beaulon to view their spectacular blue lagoons, dolomite sink holes not unlike the Mexican Cenotes, set in lovely woodland with streams, bridges and islands. For a Euro 5 entrance we had two hours wandering the gardens and a pineau tasting in the Chateau to follow.
Back at the Chateau, with it’s Dove Cote for the tasteing.
From Beaulon we drove back to Talmont via Mortange-sur-Girond where Lyn treated me to magnificent lunch at a posh place on the Port. In the evening we went to a concert of Haydn and Schubert by a youg string quartet from Paris. The acoutistics in the church were wonderful, the performance was supurb and the little venue was packed to capacity with a few late comers left sitting on the steps.
After the concert there was the usual cidre and gallette served in the gardens.
7th. Early morning walk with Cassidy before heading home from Talmont.
9th. Lyn left from Royan station at lunch time and Kevin, Nita and Connor arrived at 1am on the morning of the 10th! What with laundry and cleaning , quite a day.
For their first couple of days K,N & C did the Phare de Corduan (lighthouse), Brouage and Fort Luvois, all of which I had visited with Lyn last week but on Thursday
13th We went to the Brocant at Merchers where I found a little something for Jon and Nikki’s Silver Wedding Aniversary, had an alfresco lunch then went to the Thursday concert, a piano recital at the church of St Seurin d’uzat.
The superb concert with a program of Bach (JS), Chopin and Liszt was followed by the usual Booze and Biscuits on the lawn between the church and the little harbour.
14th A trip to Isle d’Oleron to, amongst other thinks, seek out Moulle Frit! First stop the salt pans at Pititte Village for a walk and a coffee stop.
Over in the village of Chateau d’Oleron we walked round the artists workshops, the oyster fisher’s harbour and found a “Green” round-a-bout!
We did indeed find the Moulle Frit and had a jolly good lunch
After lunch we took a walk around the fort before returning home.
The only problem of the day was the horrific size of the mosquitoes!
Back home to more Alfresco dining, an evening walk along the prom and through the village where Bastile Day was being celebrated with dancing to live music in the Sq.
15th. At the Meshers Brocant Kevin got some rather loose directions to a dog friendly beach so we set off armed with picnic and bathing gear for a day on the beach! After spending well over an hour driving round in ever decreasing circles and ever increasing frustration with not finding it and the ever increasing traffic. We gave up and went home. K,N & C went out again and had their day in the sun, Cassidy and I decided to stay out of the heat at home!
We had a lovely dinner out in one of the town Squares then followed a street procession to the beach where there was a good fireworks display. I was seriously impressed by the lengths that had been taken to secure the beach area where literally thousands had gathered to watch the display. All the approach roads, including any alley that it would have been possible to get a vehicle down, were blocked with a combination of earth moving machines, street cleaning lorries, garbage trucks (the whole of the town’s municipal fleet!) and 1.5ton concrete bollards. There were armed Police about, but discreetly.
16th A quiet day with a walk in the forest and a BBQ in the garden. Too hot to do much and K,N & C had a long drive to Bordeaux followed by a late flight.
17th Off to the business end of the Royan Harbour to meet Lison off the cross Estuary Ferry.
Lovely unexpected surprise visit from my old friend from St Jean de Losne. Lunch out in Royan, a quick trip back to St George to show her the flat and all too soon it was time for her to leave.
18th Today we welcome to our world two very important small people, Freida and Nate
May they live long, happy and satisfying lives and bring great joy to their loving parents.
19th Off to Veux-sur-Mer this evening with Luce, Michel and Odile for a concert (free) by the Academy of Music Symphony Orchestra in the amphitheatre of the Town Hall Gardens.
29th. Off to Talmond this afternoon with Luce and Michel and Cassidy. There is a free piano recital by Khatia Buniatishvili, a well known local concert pianist, on the cliff-tops overlooking the village. It starts at 7pm but we are there at 5pm to put our chairs in place and while Michel guards them, Luce and I take Cassidy for a long walk. The concert is VERY well attended and we are pleased to have secured a good position. The program is Chopin and Litz followed by two encores!
capetocarpe 