1st. This evening there was a party at the park of the lake D’Enlias with ethnic food stalls and live music. I went with Luce & Michel. We chose India food. Later we were joined by some of their friends and it was a jolly evening.
2nd. A lovely sunny day with a light sea breeze and not too hot. A good day to take a long walk so Cassidy and I set off for the Point de Suzac and its fortifications with a stop at the Parc d’Estuaire tea room along the way. The vies from the top of the cliffs across the estuary that is 5kl wide at this point are stunning. Both arms of the estuary and the aproach from the Atlantic ocean with the lighthouse in the middle are all visible. Not surprising therefore that this was chosen as a site for protective fortifications. Probably last used by the occupying German forces in the second world war.
6th Picked Sally up from Gemozac, a village 20min drive inland, where she is on a week long yoga retreat. We took a drive along the coast and had lunch at a newly re-opened place in Mortagne. Stopped off at a number of the little Gironde ports and had a lovely day.
8th. Set off by the road less traveled towards St Jean de Losne where I hope to catch up with friends, give the boat a good clean and discuss the sale (or lack thereof) with the sales team at H2O. Our first stop is a pleasant country Aire outside the small village of Chateau-Larcher 184k from St George. There is a ruined Chateau, some ramparts and a locked fortified church. The village is pretty and in the cemetery there is a “Lantern des Morts” a tower that was lit up for funerals and commemorative events.
Lanterne des Morts
10th Arrived in St Jean de Losne where I have access to showers and internet. Will spend the next few days cleaning the boat and catching up with friends and work.
19th Following time spent cleaning up the boat and visiting friends it was time to leave again. Sad that I didn’t get to see Pete and Glennie who were ted up on the canal in a convoy of Hotal Boats. Spent time parked next to JJ where I had good times with Helen and Steve and with Kate and Dean on the other side of the pound.
Also spent time with the Gerard family out at the Old lock.
From the Old Lock there are nice views out onto the River Saone.
The Aire in Autun is in a nice spot by a lake and opposite McDonald’s where there is free wifi. The weather is pretty dismal. Cold and wet which is a shame as there are sights to see.
20th. The morning dawned cold, humid and foggy and as I couldn’t see it lifting and warming up in any hurry I decided to do a long days drive and head further South and West in the hope of better weather. Once the fog lifted I took the road less travelled which made for very slow going on occasion but was worth it for the scenery. I finally stopped for the night at the mountain village of Royere-de-Vasiviere in the Limoges National Park. An area full of pine trees and lakes; Gorse and Heather; mountains, valleys and views. When I was 5k from my destination the road was blocked because the foresters were doing some serious tree felling. The deviation cost me an additional 9k on a very small, winding road.
The village is a centre for motocross, mountain biking and hiking. There are a lot of Gite. It also has a rather hippy air about it.
21st. A cold start to the day but with clear blue skies. Still heading South and West through villages with limestone built houses varying from almost white, through honey to deep russet.
Stopped at the Lac de Vissiviere to give Cassidy a run
and then again at the village of Peyrat-le-Chateau.
We had another stop at Eymoutiers where it was market day.
The scenery got progressively more dramatic culminating in the hill fort of Turenne. The Aire is free and that includes electricity and a stunning view.
Cassidy and I went off to explore the narrow, winding streets of the village and climb up to the Citadel, which was the only place from which we could get a decent phone signal! It was very quaint.
Two things have been intriguing me. As you come into the towns and larger villages the name has another name written beneath it with a St Jean’s cross in gold on a scarlet ground. The other name is the Old Occitan of the time before French was spoken throughout what is now France. A map on the table in the Castle would indicate that the knights Templar were strong in this area
and I can only think that the crosses are for them, however this needs confirming and as the tourism office was already closed for the season I will have to try elsewhere.
22nd. Warm night and warmer morning than the last few. Headed off towards Bergerac along the Dordogne Valley. However the river was only visible as a broad blue ribbon on the satnav screen till I got to Baynac-Cazenac where there was another clifftop chateau.
We stopped here for lunch and then drove onto the Aire at Lembras. The Aire is clean and free. Small and well laid out with picnic tables and lawns and clean gravel hardstanding for the van. There are ample electricity points at Euro 6 for 12 hours and a really good internet signal. I am well placed at about 10k away for the Phoenix Book Fair in Campsegret tomorrow morning.
Passing through Occetanie, Lot and Dordogne over the last couple of day the scenery has been stunning and more dramatic as the hours rolled by. This is nut country and there are Walnut tree plantations, some enclosed with electric fences! It is also Foie Gras territory and there a goose farms everywhere. I guess with these two high value crops it is not surprising that the area has a quietly prosperous and well kept air to it.
23rd. A short hop down the road to Campsegret for the Pheonix Book Sale. Having not met any English speaking residents since I moved to this side of France, this event was like an English village do complete with Tea and cakes stall and a “British Bobby” to marshal the traffic!
Back to the Aire of last night to plug in to the electricity again and catch up on work.
24th, Off to Montpon to take Patti out for lunch and then on to Blaye which I had passed through with Pippa but wanted to re-visit. The Aire is situated facing the Estuary wih its back to the Citadel. Cost Euro 3 to park but no facilities.
The Citadel is a typical C17 five pointed star fort but it is huge. Casidy and I tried to circumnavigate it but the Estuary facing wall was closed off. The perimeter wall sported some interesting sculptures.
But we were rewarded by a pretty sunset over the Estuary and a nice view of the night lights in town across the port canal.
25th.Monday morning, wet, cloudy and cool. A shame as it was not looking good for more sight seeing so after taking Casidy for a run in the moat I headed home.
capetocarpe 