2nd. On the pontoon in Port d’Enveux there was moored a beautiful old Tjalk with full rigging. When I asked if I could take some photos I was invited on board. She was beautifully and very traditionally finished with lots of highly varnished wood. The couple that run her as a holiday boat crewed by themselves do so to raise money for the Association they belong to that restores old boats. You can find out more and even if you don’t read French you can “read” the photos in the gallery at quovadis.e-monsite.com
4th. I received the deposit from the guy whose eye wateringly low offer I have accepted. I had just cleaned the exterior at great cost to my wrists and put “For Sale” notices in the window. I had not had a lot of faith in his coming through even though he is getting the deal of the centuary.
A couple of little vignettes from around St Savinien. This is one of the two butchers shops in the town.
and this is St savinien’s contribution to a cleaner, greener way of collecting the garbage. And I do not want to hear any snotty remarks about Methaine!
5th. Seeing a crowd gathering on the pontoons and jetties, because the view of the river is blocked by the reeds, I joined in to see what the excitement was all about. Round the bend in the river behind the reeds the tops of the masts of a ship came into view.
Non other than l’Hermione returning from New York and heading for her mooring in Rochefort. You can read more and see more photos on the web site below.
https://www.hermione.com/en/home/
As she came round the bend she towered over everything else on the water.
And as she passed us gave us a three gun canon salute.
8th Off to La Rochelle for my appointment at the Prefecture to apply for my Carte de Sejour so that I don’t get kicked out after Brexit. The Aire I stayed in last night was expensive at Euro 15 per night with no loos and no electricity. Wandering round the port area in the morning La Rochelle was not going to be out done by St Savinien’s horse drawn garbage wagon and is using dray horses for its tourists transport!
I arrived at the appointed time for my appointment with a brief case stuffed with every conceivable document that the paper hungry French bureaucracy could possibly ask for, only to be told that they had cancelled all the Brits appointments because they were inundated. She claimed that everyone had been informed and when I complained that I had not she asked if I was registered with the British Consul in Bordeaux. I replied to the negative to which she responded, “Well then, you are not on the list”!
Back at van I moved out of the expensive Aire and headed for Tonnay-Charente where for Euro 12 a night I know I will have electricity, a lovely tree shaded space and a great ablutions block complete with hot showers.
9th Cassidy and I took a long walk this morning over the C1842 suspension bridge to the village of Saint Hypotyte. We all know there is nothing new about graffiti!
On the way back we picked a good load os unidentified soft fruit for stewing to go with the breakfast yogurt. Maybe they are the sour cherries that Helen was referring to?
In the evening we walked along the Quai. The section in front of the town centre is being renovated with posh benches, bins and railings in stainless steel and wood. In addition a dance floor, an adventure play area and a tropical beach are being installed!
Some quite big ships come through Tonnay to take on grain from the silos.
just before this mooring spot is something that all canal boaters will recognise as a “winding hole” however on a huge scale to accommodate these large boats.
On the way back to the Aire the bridge and extensive old Quai, a firm reminder of the town’s important maritime past, looked good in the lowering sun.
As did the symbol on the Vintage Car Club building speaking to its history as the town abattoir. Originally constructed in 1842 it was in service till 1974.
10th. This morning we walked around the town visiting all the old fresh water fountains.
Later, after showering and charging everything up it will be time to head back to St Savinien to be in place for tomorrows meeting with the buyer to conclude the boat sale.
11th Back in St Sav. Good pitch with plenty of shade at the Aire. Met the boat buyer who wanted a further look at the boat before transferring the balance. He is quite picky considering how little he is paying! In the afternoon he confirmed he had instructed his bank to make the transfer. In the meantime I went to a rather strange and appropriately name exhibition called “Les Improbables which was being held in the now defunct Protestant Temple. The building was as much a part of the show, especially the fascinating roof rafters.
The exhibits were as “improbable” as one would hope!
The town, especially the area around the park where the boat is moored, is open for summer business with replica model boats plying the waters of the boating lake……
bouncy castles in all shapes and sizes…..
Boats for hire on the river and….
Luigi’s Snack Shack.
15th. Signed for the sale of the boat and left for Taillbourg. On the way a large, black Wild Boar ran across the road in front of me! And who says there is no wild life in France?
16th Moved on to Jonzac, a town that is new to me. It is in a pleasant counrty setting on the river La Seugne.
It has a castle that was a hundred years war fort but which was sustantially refurbished in the C17. The inner court now houses the mayoral offices. A concert was held in the evening and I could hear the music from the Aire. It seemed to have been “Swan Lake”, perhaps they showed the ballet on the big screen?
It also boasts some scary gargoyls.
a covered market, some nice squares and quaint streets
and what it claims to be a medieval allyway.
17th. All set for departure this morning when the guy from the next door van waved me down to say I had a flat. He kindly helped me to change the wheel but we were both stymied for a while because we couldn’t find the place to wind down the spare from its housing under the vehicle. The manual was no use. Eventually a young lad from one of the other vans found it hidden behind the wheel. The cause of the problem was a VERY BIG nail.
Having missed the time to depart without paying for another 24 hours I decided to stay for tonight as well.
18th. An earl start into the commercial area of Jonzac to shop, do laundry and get the tyre fixed before heading off towards St Jean de Cole. A lunch stop at Villebois-Lavalette was rewarding. The huge hill top fortress is visible before you reach the town.
There has been a castle on the site since a motte and Baily, wooden tower on a man made hill was built by the Lord of Villebois. Since then it has changed hands many times. The extensive stone walls and turrets were added between the late C12th and C13. After the French Revolution it became by turns a school, a police station and a prison. Today it is a privately owned Historical Monument, restoration, visitor tours and archaeological excavations are on going.
There is an attractive church and some pretty old stone houses and a covered market who’s scale you only appreciate from a distance. It has fine roof rafters. Like Jonzac, Villebois has its very own Medieval allyway!
The drive today was on quiet roads through rolling hills dotted with hamlets and fortified medieval farms and more chateau than you can shake a stick at. I had forgotten just how pretty this area is.
19th Spent last night in the delightful hamlet of St Jean de Cole. It must be one of the prettiest little villages in France. A medieval Bridge, Castle, church and covered market are just some of the attractions.
Then there are the little streets with timbered houses.
I arrived in Nathian and started work on Patti’s car. First bleeding the brakes and topping up the fluid. Then cleaning the car, a mammoth task. It was amazing that having stood for at least ten months the car started first time. Over the next few days I turned my attention to the wilderness that is her garden. Patti did a run down to the bins to dump garbage and recycling and said it felt good to be behind the wheel again. The next day she went off to the town of Thivier to do some shopping. Hopefully on the road back to “normal”. Her cottage is very cute.
capetocarpe 